Kebaya

Kebaya is derived from the Arabic word "abaya" which means clothes. Trust kebaya originating from China hundreds of years ago. Then spread to Malacca, Java, Bali, Sumatra, and Sulawesi. After acculturation which lasted hundreds of years, the clothing is accepted in local cultures and sensitivities.Kebaya is a type of clothing worn by the women of Java, particularly in the cultural environment of Yogyakarta and Surakarta, Central Java. Usually accompanied bustier and fabrics tapih pinjung with stagen. Baju kebaya worn by the duchess and the common people well as everyday clothing and ceremonial clothing. At the ceremonial clothes as worn by a garwo palace for example, baju kebaya using a pin severally combined with fabric Sinjang or jarik batik, head hair bun, and is equipped with jewelry worn as earrings, rings, necklaces and bracelets as well as fan usually do not miss. For everyday clothing is generally sufficient Javanese woman wearing a tank top paired with stagen and fabrics jarik. Kemben used to cover the breasts, underarms and back, because the tank top fabric is quite wide and long. While stagen wound on the abdomen to bind tapihan pinjung to be strong and not easily separated.

Philosophy

For a woman of Java, not only as a limited kebaya outfit. Moreover kebaya also keep an own philosophy. A philosophy that contains the values ​​of life. The existence of kebaya in Indonesia not only as to be one type of clothing. Kebaya have meaning and function more than that. The form is simple can be regarded as a form of simplicity of Indonesian society. Value philosophy of kebaya is compliance, smoothness, and the behavior of women who should be completely soft. Kebaya is always identical paired with jarik or cloth bandages body. The body fabric bandages directly will make any woman who wears it difficult to move quickly. That is why women always synonymous with a personal Java graceful.

Wearing a kebaya will make the woman wearing it turns into an elegant woman and have personality. Kebaya pieces that follow the body shape inevitably will make the woman should be able to adjust and maintain themselves. Setagen which serves as a belt, the shape does not change as long cloth that serves as a belt. But instead of the long form that the values ​​instilled noble philosophy, a symbol to be patient / human patient be closely linked to the Javanese proverb "Dowo ususe" or the length of his intestines, which means patience. 

Similar outfit called "nyonya kebaya" was first coined by the Peranakan people of Melaka. They wear gloves and shoes with a gorgeous beaded called "sepatu manek". Now, mistress kebaya is undergoing renewal, and is also well known among non-Asian women.
Prior to 1600, on the island of Java, kebaya outfit is worn only the royal family there. During the period of Dutch control of the island, European women began wearing kebaya as formal wear. During this period, kebaya changed from simply using  using Mori silk fabric with colorful embroidery.

History

Kebaya history began in the 15th century AD. At that time, the kebaya fashion typical of Indonesian women, especially women of Java. Clothing consists of tops combined with fabric. In the mid 18th century, there are two types of kebaya that many people use, the kebaya Encim, clothing worn Peranakan Chinese women in Indonesia, and New Putu kebaya, short tunic style clothing colorful with beautiful motifs.

In the 19th century, kebaya worn by all social classes every day, both women and women Peranakan Javanese Dutch. Even kebaya dress had become mandatory for Dutch woman who moved to Indonesia.

Over time, the Design Kebaya changed and was eroded times. Moreover, during the Japanese occupation, when the creativity and productivity of the nation is pressed down to the lowest level. Japanese occupation of Indonesia cut a textile trading and supporting equipment, a lot of production houses Eventually closed kebaya and batik are only a few companies can survive.
       Since that time, the trail kebaya slightly rubbed. The women freedom fighters who are still using kebaya (most types kebaya Kartini and encim), back popularized it, despite having to compete with Western clothes that are considered more "liberate" women from the past kebaya symbolization, which confine women in corsets and long cloth winding According to fashion designer Ferry Setiawan, in the 1940s, kebaya been the President as a national costume. At that time, considered kebaya traditional dress of women in Indonesia and became a symbol of women's emancipation in Indonesia.

      Therefore, the kebaya is the clothing worn by the rise of women leaders of Indonesia, Raden Ajeng Kartini. Not surprisingly, on April 21 every year (Kartini’s day), the girls, young women, and mothers appeared wearing a kebaya. Kebaya is now not only used during traditional ceremonies course, now many emerging modern fashion designers such as Dhea Panggabean, Anne Avantie, Amy Atmanto, and other fashion designer is able to design kebaya contemporary style. They were able to modify the kebaya to be more unique and varied by presenting modern elegance, fashionable and elegant, so kebaya can also be worn at the time of the party, wedding and modern days.